Tuesday, September 25, 2012

heavy things

It is a bit overdue, but I have two very important and impressionable sites that are notable in a blog about Germany. These were both sites for my program "excursions" and they delve into some of the most emotional periods in Germany's history. We visited the Stasi Prison a little over a week ago and then the former concentration camp, Sachsenhausen, this past Friday.

The Stasi Prison was in commission from 1950 to 1989 and was an intermediate prison for suspected enemies of the German Democratic Republic (GDR)--which ruled over East Berlin behind the "Iron Curtain" when the Berlin wall was built in 1961. Once the boarder was sealed, any citizens of East Berlin who were even suspected to be in any way against the Stasi could very well end up in the torturous physical and mental rooms at the prison for questioning and to await trial. Various accounts have pointed to the padded isolation rooms and some form of water-boarding to be among the most mentally and physically terrorizing events in addition to the earlier days when as many as 11 people would be stuffed into a 12'x12'x12' room.

We toured most of the facility there and listened to the stories about the changed within the GDR and how once the physical conditions were forced to adhere to slightly better standards in the late 60's and 70's, the details to mentally breaking prisoners became more intricate.
The cells on the left and the offices on the right
--prisoners could not see out from the "glass brick" windows

Basement cells housed the most sought after prisoners like
political leaders, anti-GDR writers, and influential community members
 Perhaps the most striking aspect of this site was the fear and control the government was able to instill into its citizens. And, of course, it is extremely difficult to grasp how this was happening until 1989, the year my sister was born! Our tour guide was only in his late 20s and was a former resident of East Berlin during GDR power. He remembered his parents putting strands of their hair over the doorway to their apartment so they could check to see if the Stasi had broken into their home while they were away. It was not unusual for the Stasi to break into a home and rearrange the pictures on the wall, or fill the ashtray with cigarettes just to let a family know that they are watching. Hard to believe such organizations existed, to say the least.


The next site we visited was even more difficult to bear. The Sachsenhausen concentration camp is located on the outer rim of Berlin in Oranienburg and was open from 1936 to 1945 under Nazi control. After liberation by the Allied forces, Sachsenhausen was taken over by the Soviet Union as Special Camp Nr. 7, where they detained Nazi functionaries, anti-Communists, and Russians, including Nazi collaborators, before the close of the camp in 1950. After extensive excavations starting in the 1950's, over 12,500 bodies have been recovered, and the ashes of many more were discovered surrounding the camp's four-oven crematorium and mobile oven trucks.

I have taken courses on history, human rights, political action, and even took a class called "Genocide in the 20th Century," but none of it really prepared me for the intense hallowed feeling of walking through the camp. It would be disrespectful and naive to assume that I will in any way be able to convey any kind of "coming to terms" with the overwhelming quiet that exists at the site. And what is, perhaps, most difficult is that this was not a death camp at all. It was a labor camp, and a small one at that. Located in the center of a town. There isn't a whole lot more I can say that doesn't delve into existentialism in its entirety after visiting Sachsenhausen.


Grove of trees outside the labor
 camp with scattered memorials

"Labor Frees" on the front gate

Site marker #25: Execution Trench

"And I know one thing more--that the Europe of the future cannot exist without
commemorating all those, regardless of their nationality, who were killed that
this time with complete contempt and hate, who were tortured to death,
starved, gassed, incinerated and hanged..."
~Andrzej Szczypiorski, former Sachsenhausen prisoner
I would like to end this heavy post with one of my all-time favorite quotes that grants me piece of mind, at the very least, when I need it the most:

“The first is that the struggle for justice should never be abandoned because of the apparent overwhelming power of those who have the guns and money and who seem invincible in their determination to hold on to it. That apparent power has, again and again, proved vulnerable to human qualities less measurable than bombs and dollars: moral fervor, determination, unity, organization, sacrifice, wit, ingenuity, courage, patience—whether by blacks in Alabama and South Africa, peasants in El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Vietnam, or workers and intellectuals in Poland, Hungary, and the Soviet Union itself. No cold calculation of the balance of power need deter people who are persuaded that their cause is just.”
~ Howard Zinn, “Failure to quit: reflections of an optimistic historian,”The Optimism of Uncertainty

Thanks for reading, I have another post that I am working on and will update again soon.

Viele Liebe! [much love]

Monday, September 17, 2012

word to the wise

Here is a list of do's and do not's along with some tips I have picked up on during the first month of my stay in Berlin. Some of these are observed and some of them are experienced.

Do Nots:
  1. Don't try to jump onto the train (U-Bahn or S-Bahn) at the last minute--it's not like BART, the door is not going to open and your arm is going to be guillotined.
  2. Don't stand in the little square next to the rear door of the bus because the door won't shut and if you have your headphones in, you're going to get hit by moms with strollers standing near you
  3. Don't assume anyone will speak English at the post office. They won't.
  4. Don't trust the arrows on your map. They might actually be pointing in exactly the opposite direction.
  5. Don't put off e-mailing your mom from your hostel...she'll call internationally.
  6. Don't use sarcasm with German people. It's not going to work 99.9% of the time.
Do:
  1. Definitely leave with time to spare. Lots of it, you can go from zero to lost in an instant.
  2. Go running to see what is in the neighborhoods around you (and not have to talk to anyone because when you're a runner you are no longer conspicuous)
  3. Try to order everything in German, even though 9 times out of 10 the cashier will respond in perfect English
  4. Expect that your clothes will be wet for 2 days after washing them because dryers do not exist in Germany--plan outfits accordingly and don't wash all of your pants at once
  5. Buy a million post cards and send them often. A hand drawn heart means loads more than a "less than three"
  6. Always dress in layers. Rainstorms to heat waves to frozen tundra to dry and cold in one day. Scarves and cardigans, all day.
Assumptions/Fun Facts:
  1. It is safe to say at this point that most German women over age 30 don't shave (or at least not often). An extra layer for warmth I suppose?
  2. Germans subsist off of pastries, chocolate, and beer. Don't tell my thighs about all those calories though
  3. The German language does not sound mean all the time. Although when a mother yells at her child in German, it explains a lot about the adults who refuse to smile at you on the street.
  4. Top knot buns, leggings, long army-green coats, mustard yellow everything, and infinity scarves are all the rage here
  5. Almost none of the brands you know and love in the U.S. are here. I was lied to about that one.

And finally, a few of my favorite pictures so far:

Club Mate tea and a sunflower from the open market

My two adorable friends, Camille and Steph

Schloss Sanssouci

TV Tower

museum island

Tapas and Coffee

Berliner Dom

Gelato at the weekend market

"Make Love Work"

Cookie Monster

TV Tower

the cutest little coffee maker ever (in a department store in Berlin)
Thanks for reading! Wednesday marks my official one month in Berlin. Down to less than 3 months, let's make it count!

Much love,
Jordan

Saturday, September 15, 2012

chapter two: museums, wine, and many photos

Hello loved ones!

It has been a busy two weeks since my last post. We have been to many more museums, on more adventures around the city, and to Potsdam, a city directly adjacent to Berlin. Here is a recent chronology of events:

First off, my school group had our first excursion last Friday (September 7th) to see Schloss Cecilienhof and Schloss Sanssouci, both of which are located in Potsdam. I absolutely loved that city! It was really what I expected "authentic" German streets to look like; the cobble stone streets with little shops, arches, and cafes galor. In a word: charming. Schloss Cecilenhof was incredible to see because it is the mansion where the Potsdam Agreement was negotiated by Stalin, Truman, and Churchill post-WWII (Berlin was too far destroyed from the war for the conference to conviene there). This agreement determined the division of Berlin (East and West), divvied up the remaining undeclared territories, and formed the basis for the reconstruction of Europe.
One of the entryways to the main conference room for Stalin, Truman, and Churchill
The outside of one wing of Schloss Cecilienhof
After Schloss Cecilienhof, my friend Camille and I walked around the adorable little streets of Potsdam and settled into a little cafe for lunch before heading to Schloss Sanssouci.
Espresso & hot chocolate on a chilly September day in Potsdam
Schloss Sanssouci was built in the mid-18th century and was the summer palace of Frederick the Great, King of Prussia. It is well esteemed in Germany as a landmark in architecture and grandeur and the yellow exterior is one of my very favorite colors. We toured the interior and each room was gold leafed, hand-painted, sculpted, imported, and carved from the finest materials around the world--even by today's standards. Certainly a sight worth seeing, but I enjoyed the history and significance of Schloss Cecilienhof a great deal more to be honest. Nevertheless, Schloss Sanssouci was breathtaking.


Outside Schloss Sanssouci
Schloss Sanssouci entry hallway chandelier
After our adventures in Potsdam, my friends and I visited a wine garden (outdoor wine bar generally with gardens and outdoor seating, similar to a beer garden). The pangs of winter's approach are already in the air here, but it is the start to my favorite fashion weather: big knit scarves, sweaters, and cardigan layers (soon to be hats, gloves, and boots too). There were too many wines to choose from and I wish I could have read everything on the menu! But we made some sweet selections and lounged on the garden benches enjoying the crisp air and beautiful day.

Red and white wine galor! 
After an eventful few days, we decided to start whittling down the long list of museums we need to visit for our classes. Camille, Steph, and I visited the Deutsches Historisch Museum (German History Museum), visited Ritter Sport (famous German chocolate brand), and then I headed to the Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. I enjoyed all of our day's activities (including the tapas we ended the day with), but I have to say that Checkpoint Charlie was by far the most interesting and heartfelt museum I have visited. The mix of artwork, personal accounts, artifacts, and timeline set a hopeful and striking tone--presenting the materials in a very powerful way. It was very touristy and covered a vast range of personal stories and historic milestones.
Camille and Steph at Ritter Sport Chocolate
Protest signs from the Deutsches Historisch Museum
"The Fraternal Kiss" from Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
"You are leaving the American Sector" famous sign
Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
Camille and I also took a walk around Berlin on one of the last very nice days and took pictures of the TV tower and Berliner Dom. These are some of my favorite pictures of the trip thus far, and it was such a fluke of a photo shoot in between studying on a Sunday.
TV Tower
Berliner Dom
TV Tower through the Berlin anniversary monument 
I have some grains of wisdom I would like to bestow on any future Berlin visitors, but they are still in the works at the moment--I will try to post them tomorrow though! In the meantime, know that I am loving my time here, missing my wonderful boyfriend and family severely, and looking forward to the adventures to come.


Much much love.